Heel vs. Walk Nice, and Choke Chains

Since I'm feeling a little better (broke my fever finally), I thought I'd go ahead and plop in another topic.

This one is a pet peeve of mine and is related to the reasons why the 'choke chain' is on the forbidden list at most dog training schools.

The choke chain in the hands of somebody who knows how to use it humanely is not going to do any damage to the dog. In fact, I've trained three dogs using choke chains. No biggee.

It is a biggee problem now, because apparently vets and various obedience clubs have discovered that the choke chain in the wrong hands damages the dogs' throats and parts thereof. Rather than teach people how to use the chains properly, most clubs have decided to ban choke chains altogether. The argument is that the majority of people who go through basic obedience training tend to be a bit airheaded when it comes to how they handle their dogs when not under an instructor's supervision.

I guess I'm fine with that move, but wish that these clubs would address the reasons why so many dogs are now having throat problems thanks to choke chains. It isn't the choke chains themselves, or even the dogs. It's the owners improperly using this training tool.

The way I look at it, the problems are:

A. People don't know how to put choke chains on their dogs right

B. People don't know how to correct the dogs with choke chains

C. People don't realize that a choke chain should not be used except when training

The correct way to put a choke chain on your dog:

Think of the letter P. That is how the loop should look when you put it on the dog. When you correct the dog, it is a quick pop/release.

When people put the chain on backwards (think backwards P), the chain will not release properly after corrections. It stays tight around the dog's neck.

The proper way to correct your dog:

When you feel your dog pulling or not paying attention, you do a QUICK pop on the chain towards your left leg or hip and then release. This should be a moderate pop, nothing that yanks your dog over backwards. And you release instantly after the pop. You do not want to keep pulling on the chain, because most dogs learn to pull right back, causing the chain to tighten up WAY TOO MUCH around their neck causing that damage.

Again - your goal is to get your dog's attention. So you pop, give a verbal command (like 'Heel!' 'Walk Nice!' or 'Pay Attention!'), and release.

There is a time and a place for using a choke chain:

This is my pet peeve of the century - when I see people taking their dogs out for walks with those choke chains instead of regular collars. The chains will be knot tight and grinding away at the dogs' throats as they pull every which way to mark everything and checks out smells.

There was this one time when a neighbor was out walking her female lab. This dog was built like a tank and twice as strong. When she saw me and my dog coming up the street, the dog pulled so hard she broke the choke chain.

Dudes.

The collars are for training only. You use them in controlled environments where you can train the dogs not to pull. If you do this right, you can put your flat or rolled collars on the dogs when they go for walks and you should be able to use those normal and harmless collars to remind the dogs to calm down.

That goes into my other semi-rant - and keep in mind I'm approaching this from the show obedience side, where the heel is this religious and holy thing that must not be confused ever with the casual walk around the block.

When you tell your dog to heel, you expect the animal to walk on your left side and do this synchronized walking thing with you, with their focus up and only on you. This is ideal when you are walking into stores or otherwise indoors where you don't want the dog to be all over and bothering other people.

When you are outdoors and taking your dog for a walk - dudes, it is just cruel expecting your dog to be glued to your side and paying strict attention to you. Keep in mind most dogs regard the evening walk as their time to be dogs. This means strutting down the street taking in all of the scents, stalking the odd squirrel it sees in somebody's yard, waggling at other walkers, and also peeing on everything in sight.

Let's say you have a young dog, and want to preserve the sanctity of the 'heel' word for those occasions when you are walking around a store and don't want your dog paying any attention to other dogs or people or smells around the store - use the 'heel' word only then. If you have a choke chain and know how to use it, I'd probably save it for times like this - to remind the dog that he is working.

When you are out walking the dog, it is too much to expect the animal to do a perfect heel the entire route. For that matter, it is too much for people to be paying attention to their dogs that entire walk. So they might tell the dog to 'heel' and then, while they are distracted or daydreaming, allow the dogs to pull and do whatever the heck they want. This renders the 'heel' word meaningless to the dogs.

What I generally do with my dogs is teach them I expect them to walk nice - all the time. I don't put up with pulling or lunging, period. The dogs are trained to walk nice up and down the hallway of my house, and then in the front yard - in a controlled area.

I use the choke chain only when I'm training/working with my dog. This way he recognizes the choke chain as a "training+treats" cue. There is that reminder that I expect his full attention, and of course he knows he'll get treats and praise when he's perfect.

When I put the flat collar on my dog, he recognizes that as "walking/car ride" cue. Means he gets to be as goofy as he wants, but thanks to the earlier training he knows the pop and sharp verbal correction (Walk Nice!) from me means I expect him to walk nice.

The only exception really is if you have one of those aggressive type dogs who responds only to the choke chain or even a pronged collar when he sees something it wants to attack or eat. In which case, I'd probably put both a choke chain and a regular collar on the dog, and I'd be prepared to switch over to the choke chain or pronged collar if I see something ahead that I know he will go after. And I would use the choke chain/prong as a correction and otherwise do what I can to diffuse the situation and maintain control.

I have never owned a dog like this, but acknowledge that they do exist. All the same, a special collar should not replace training. One of my neighbors owns two young but large boxers who are a bit like this. They are not aggressive, but they are super-active and strong-minded. Although she is petite and could be dragged if they set their minds to taking off with her, she is an excellent trainer and more than capable of handling both dogs at the same time - and that is with flat collars.

Besides the training, she takes certain measures to diffuse situations that could get her in trouble. One is walking at the times of the day when there aren't so many dogs and people out and about. If she does come upon other walkers, she quickly sits her dogs and maintains a hold of their collars until the distractions pass by.

Anyhoo, a quick review:

Heel - when you use this word, make sure you follow up and make the dog heel (dog is glued to your side and matching your pace perfectly) until whatever point when you release them and let them walk off and be dogs.

Walk Nice - for when you are out and about and don't expect the dog to be glued to your side and performing a perfect heel while you yourself would rather be daydreaming or talking with friends. Those two words are reminder enough to the dog to stop pulling or winding the leash around your legs and/or marking everything in sight.

Choke Chains - Are a great tool, if they are used correctly. If used incorrectly, you could have a dog like my neighbors' dog who broke that chain like it was nothing before charging my alarmed beast. Or at worst, you might permanently damage your dog's throat, larynx, thryroid, and whatever else and incur mondo vet bills.

Know you Dog - is the most important concept a dog owner and trainer needs to wrap their head around. Everybody's dog is different. Learn the worst that your dogs can do, and figure out how best handle them.

Confession:

Jack's worst is he has apparently set his mind on living up to his name. When I'm out walking with him, I steer to the far side of the road when I encounter other walkers. Give him a little encouragement (dog barking at him, people cooing over him, etc), and he will jump three feet in the air and then look for something to pick up and shake in his mouth (usually his own leash). And yes, that is my obedience trained dog that I hope to show soon....

Pantry Necessities

In case of colitis, don't forget the hamburger and rice solution.

After writing the warning about giving too much turkey dinner to your dogs, I discovered that the Jacket had a little too much handouts. Poor little guy was up all night.

Good thing I keep a supply of ground beef in the freezer and instant rice in the pantry. I don't know if other people do this, but I pour off the grease after the beef is browned and rinse the ground beef after cooking to make sure it is as plain and gentle on his stomach as possible.

He kept his breakfast down all day and found time to sneak out of the house and visit one of the neighborhood dogs. M'guess he's ok.

My neighbors don't believe me when I tell them my dog will be showing in obedience possibly in spring. Can't blame them. The only time they see him is when he's running loose through the woods and fields with me chasing after him - barefoot and in shorts in 40 degree weather.

In which case, my fallback excuse is golden retrievers aren't trustworthy outside and offleash until three or four - especially in an area where there are children and dogs.

I'll be giving him the rest of his hamburger and rice mixed with half a cup of his regular food for his supper tonight.

Happy Thanksgiving

Happy Thanksgiving to all dog owners out there.

Had sat down and enjoyed chit-chat with relatives after our supper today. Our conversation turned to the dogs, and particularly the precious dogs we have lost.

This past April (2009), we lost our Danny (Chien d'or Ramboln Gamboln Dan) to splenic cancer. It was one of those things when the week of Easter he was well and healthy, and then the week after he stopped eating. Fortunately with him, we already recognized the warning signs of the cancer going haywire, so he did not suffer for two weeks like his 'brother' had.

Thanksgiving 2007, we lost Sam (Starchaser Sam I Am) to the same splenic cancer. In his case we had no clue what was going on with him, and the vets were hardly wiser. He was sick from Thanksgiving week through mid-December, when he almost died at home.

I'll be honest here - splenic cancer is horrible, but it thankfully usually comes at the end after the dog has lived a full and complete life, as those two wonderful old men did.

The warning signs usually are sudden stomach problems. Your dog will be less inclined to eat his food, and he may throw up anything he does eat (though not always). He will be quieter and distracted, like something is bothering him. And he will not want any exercise or play time.

At this point, the symptons are similar to a LOT of other diseases and conditions a dog might have. Most particularly pancreatitis, which might be related to handouts at this time of the year*.

The extreme signs are lethargy and trembling - at which point it means the dog is likely past the point of no return. The tumor has not burst yet, but is pushing on other organs and causing a lot of pain for the dog.

The end point the dog will be throwing up and defecating at the same time. Could be normal colored bile and poop, or it could be black from blood. This is a sign that the tumor has burst, his body is filling with toxins, and his organs are shutting down.

This cancer is a common one, particularly for golden retrievers. With my Jacket, I'm resigned to the fact that he is likely to develop the same cancer when he grows old. He shares many bloodlines with the two dogs mentioned above.

This cancer while common is usually fatal in dogs - this because by the time the dogs are exhibiting symptoms, it is already too late and the tumor has already spread throughout the body. If the tumor hasn't burst, the vets can go in and remove the affected spleen, but it just buys the owners time - usually only six months.

With Danny, they performed an autopsy on his body per our request, as he had been experiencing other problems late in his life. The vets found tumors attached to his lungs and his heart. Had he survived the surgery (we had the spleen removed), he would not have lasted very long.

As I said - make sure you know your dogs, and be sure that when they die, you have no regrets. Give them the love and care that you would your children. When the time comes, they are usually taken away very fast.

On a more positive note, I am very thankful this year for my dogs, particularly Jacket (Jumping Jack Flash). He has been my comfort and joy since I lost my golden angel (Danny).

#Thanksgiving Note -

Per my experience with the dogs, be sure to go easy on the turkey handouts. Too much turkey causes colitis and even pancreatitis (severe inflamation of the pancreas).

Danny had two bouts with pancreatitis in his long life. Fortunately, our vets reacted quickly and cleared up his problems without it causing too much health problems, but I know of other people who have lost their dogs to this digestive disorder.

All about the SIT

F I R S T
S T E P

Have dog at your left side in "heel position".

Take leash in right hand and put your left hand on dog's bum (right over his hips, above his tail).

Try to do the three following steps at the same time:

1. Say sit
2. Pull straight up on leash
3. Gently push down on the dog's bum

As soon as the dog's butt touches the floor, IMMEDIATELY praise and give him a treat.

With the above step, timing is everything. It's actually more difficult for the newbie trainer to learn than the dog.

If you do this correctly for a day or two, you will have a dog immediately dropping his butt to the floor with just the verbal command. That verbal command will even go away as you teach your dog cues with your body language. That is the goal you are working towards.

The things people do to mess up their dogs' sits:

1. Jump ahead of the dog's ability

Meaning, they tell a beginner dog to sit and either stand around dopily when the dog doesn't sit, or they keep repeating the command.

If your dog does not immediately do what he is supposed to, go back a step or even go back to basics and reinforce.

2. They confuse the dog by giving mixed signals

This could be anything, but a good example is pulling forward at the leash (like you are urging the dog to move forward) instead of pulling straight up on the leash.

Be consistent. Know exactly what to do for each exercise and do it as precisely as possible.

3. They stress their dogs out

When dogs are stressed, that's when they start to tune their trainer out and they mentally go to a happier place.

Try to stay calm and pleasant when training your dog. If you must correct your dog, do so, but don't drag it out so your dog feels like training time is torture time.

4. They bore their dogs to death

Repetition is good, but most dogs (especially the young ones) have a short attention span. Most exercises should only be repeated 3-5 times in a training session. The trainer should mainly aim to end on a positive and GOOD note.

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S E C O N D
S T E P

Disclaimer: Most people only need the first step - particularly if they have no intention of doing show obedience. This step is geared towards people who want to compete.

If you are planning on showing your dog, you will not be allowed to give any commands in the show ring.

The judge will tell you and your dog to 'halt'. This means you stop moving and your dog is expected to immediately sit at your left side without ANY commands from you.

This causes a lot of panic for newbie trainers, because a lot of their dogs simply won't sit without the verbal or leash command.

The best thing to do is wean yourself off both crutches as soon as possible.

The steps are:

1. Teach sit (leash, bum, treat)
2. Wean off bum and leash command, rely only on treat and voice

Switch leash to the left hand, treat with the right hand.

3. Hide treat in pocket and give verbal command, reward successful sits with treat

These steps are taught while moving around around the room. Each time you come to a stop, you make the dog sit. And you must be consistent.

4. The dog will make the connection sooner or later that stopping means he has to sit, even when you do not give him the verbal command. When he does this right, he IMMEDIATELY gets the treat and praise.

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T H I R D
S T E P

This isn't exactly a step, but it comes after your dog knows and is getting pretty consistent with the sits.

That's when you start worrying about refining the sits themselves.

Speed

In the show ring, the dog has to sit down immediately. If he hesitates before sitting or the sit motion is too slow, then the judge deducts points.

Maybe once a week, have a training session when you do rapid fire sits. You go back to basics (leash, bum, treat), but do them very fast.

A well-trained dog is not going to like getting the leash/bum correction and will learn to pay attention and drop his butt down as soon as you stop. When he does that throw a huge treat and praise party.

The important thing is to not ever bully or hurt your dog. Training is supposed to be fun. If you scare the heck out of your dog, that will definitely cause problems in the show ring. Keep in mind the dog's movement is supposed to be natural. If he shows fear in the ring, it means points off or it could disqualify you.

Heel position:

Dog is at your left side with the front of his shoulders in line with your leg.

If you teach the sit wrong or if you are one of those people who unconsciously step into the dog - the dog will learn to swing his sit out. Instead of sitting face forward with his shoulders in line with your knee and the rest of his body a straight line, the dog might have a slightly crooked sit, or he might even turn completely so he facing you.

The easiest fix is to find a straight wall in your house to practice next to. Put your dog between you and the wall, give him enough room to sit but make it tight enough so he is forced to do straight sits, and work your way up.

Maybe do this once a week as a reinforcement, while ALSO working sits away from the wall the rest of the time. You do not want to start using the wall as a crutch.

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H A N D
S I G N A L

This is just a fun trick to teach your dog for around the house and to impress the family. There are also some times when you are in public and your dog is loose. Like say if you are talking to somebody and don't want to stop talking to either give your dog a verbal sit command or reach for him, just pointing a finger works.

You teach this trick after your dog has been taught and knows his sits (leash, bum, treat).

1. Stand in front of your dog. Dog should be standing at this point.

2 Use the index finger of your right hand (doesn't matter which hand, but make sure it's the same hand each time) to point directly over his head and tell your dog to sit.

3. As soon as he sits, give him treat and praise.

4. Wean off verbal commands and just point and reward.


If you have a distractive dog, you can always show him the treat and close it in your right hand. That will keep his attention on that hand when you raise it and point.

After the dog learns the hand signal, you can build distance. My dog can be on the other side of a big room and will sit as soon as he sees that pointing finger. Build distance gradually - like a foot at a time.



#Note on Sits

If your dog is slow to sit or doesn't like sitting, it might be just be stubborness (and God knows dogs can put on the stubborn face and fight an annoying bossy owner).

It could also be a back or hip problem making those sits painful or uncomfortable for him.

Know your dog and keep your eyes open for any developing health problems.

My old golden Danny (see my Welcome post) had really bad hips in his old age, and he would sit in slow motion when I asked him to. I still asked him to sit, because it kept his little mind busy in old age and training was always a positive play thing with us*, but I let him sit however as slow as he wanted. If he had bad days where his hips were really locking up and sore, I would not ask him for any sits.

*When I started training the current dog (Jacket), I'd have to lock Danny in his room (coincidentally, my bedroom), otherwise he'd come barging out and try to training right next to Jacket, if not between me and the pup.

What is this?

This is a training blog with special attention to dog training (AKC Show/Competition Obedience). I'll also talk about dogs and doggy stuff here.

I have no idea how frequently I'll have time to update this, but it was something that occurred to me a while back that it would be more fun than a big ball of wax to try.

I'm a dog trainer.

It is something I do as a hobby - mainly because it is easier to train dogs than it is to train their owners. :)

This blog is mainly here for me to hit on various points that I've learned and hopefully share them with people who might have just brought a puppy home and are trying to decide what they are going to do with said puppy.

Or I will simply use this blog as a place to rant and babble about things that I've observed over my many years of training my dogs and attending dog class.

Feel free to comment and correct me if you think I'm wrong. Or if you have questions. I do not claim to be an expert on everything, but I'll try to help.

*Pictured above are my dogs Danny and Jack.

Danny unfortunately passed away around this same time last year. He was the first dog I 'really' trained (I trained our dogs before him, but not official AKC obedience stuff) and though he is gone he is the one that will remain dearest to my heart.

The little one blurring around Danny is the dog I'm mainly training now, Jack (Jacket). He is probably the only dog I've had that WANTS to be trained and is full of promise. If his hips clear, he may definitely be my first dog to go into the upper levels of show obedience (the classes where the dogs must jump their height).